| Historical notes: | Paddington is part of the land of the Cadigal people.
In 1823, ex-convict James Underwood and two other emancipists, Robert Cooper and Francis Ewan Forbes, combined to establish Sydney’s first legal distillery on 100 acres of land granted to them between Old South Head Road (Oxford Street) and Rushcutters Bay. By the time the grant was ratified in 1831, Underwood had bought Forbes’ share and his relationship with Copper had broken down, and the partnership was dissolved. 97 acres were by then in the sole ownership of Underwood and 3 acres were retained by Cooper around Juniper Hall facing South Head Road (Parkinson ‘The Underwoods: Lock, Stock & Barrel). This grant comprised a quarter of present day Paddington and was chosen for its supply of fine water from the Glenmore Brook near Jersey Road. The area became known as the Underwood Estate, or Underwood’s Paddock. It encompassed the land between Oxford, Ormond, Cascade Streets, Glenmore Brook and Jersey Road.
Underwood’s Paddock was first subdivided in 1839 and was called the Paddington Estate. He called the area after the London Borough where he had property and by the mid-1830s, the name ‘Paddington’ was in common use. The subdivision ran from Juniper Hall along Oxford Street to Jersey Road and down to Paddington Street. Four streets, Underwood, Paddington, Elizabeth and William, were formed for the subdivision and 80 allotments were offered for sale. The main sales however occurred in the 1870s, when the rest of the estate, totalling over 800 lots was sold.
The growth of Paddington had been slow during the early years of the nineteenth century. Large estates, the relative isolation of the area and an economic slowdown in the early 1840s hampered development. The construction of Victoria Barracks in 1848 was the impetus for the main development of the village, firstly along Oxford Street opposite the new barracks. Victoria Barracks provided the main source of custom for the early hotels, which were mostly within a short distance of the Barracks along Oxford Street, including the Sussex Arms, the Britannia, the Rose and Crown, the Londonderry, the Rifle Butts and Colonel Bloomfield’s Arms, the Crab Guns, the Greenwood Tree and the Paddington Inn.
The subdivision of the large estates, such as the Underwood Estate, particularly between 1870 and 1890 fuelled a building boom, including houses and hotels across what was to become the suburb of Paddington. The predominant form was the terrace house, built largely by small scale builder developers, in rows of four to six houses. Terraces made maximum use of the narrow suburban blocks, and the sloping topography of the area while still offering enough room for families and small backyards. Paddington was a renter’s suburb, with the majority of houses leased to workers who commuted into the city, to the docks or the industries around Sydney’s southern fringe (Kelly,op cit, pp.83-84; pp95-100). This working class community, with few public halls or restaurants, relied on local hotels for their meeting areas and dining rooms.
Lord Dudley Hotel
Point Piper Road, which ran down the eastern boundary of the Paddington Municipality as a connecting thoroughfare between Oxford Street and New South Head Road, had been developed in stages since the 1850s. The road was controlled by the South Head Road Trust, which by the 1870s was struggling to keep the road in working order as traffic increased. The lower reaches of the road, towards Ocean Street, although part of the large Underwood Estate, had been left unsold and undeveloped into the late 1870s, with a large quarry and a tannery being the main land use. In 1878, lots fronting Point Piper Road were finally released as part of the sale of residue areas of the Underwood Estate.
The corner of Point Piper Road and a new street, called Quarry Street, was within Lot 7, Section 15 of the Estate and was purchased by William Buchanan, a carpenter of Paddington. By 1878 Buchanan had erected a dwelling and hotel on the corner, initially naming it the Estate Hotel, and then the Underwood Estate Hotel.
Another hotel, the Horticultural Hotel was built next door on Lot 6 at the same time by George Graham. Buchanan took up the licence for the hotel for its first years, before sub-leasing it to various publicans. Plans show the Underwood Estate Hotel as addressing the corner block, with two detached outbuildings in the rear yard space. In 1885 Buchanan purchased the Horticultural Hotel next door as well (LPI Old Systems Torrens title Volume 330 Folio 80). In 1888, he built three terrace houses to the rear of the Hotel, these being Nos. 1,3 and 5 Quarry Street, and all were leased by 1889.
The two hotels traded side-by-side until the license of the Horticultural was cancelled in 1891 due to a lack of accommodation offered (Evening News, 15 May 1891, p.6). Buchanan changed the building to a grocery, and later a laundry. The nearby Glenmore Tannery and Woollahra Quarry industrial sites probably provided custom.
The Underwood Estate hotel continued to trade on the site until July 1908, when the building was demolished to make way for a new, modern hotel. The old hotel was totally dismantled and the salvage material sold at a public auction, including over 10,000 hardwood joists, beams and floorboards, roofing iron, ceiling iron, water pipes, doors, window frames and sashes, as well as tubs, stoves and other fixings (Sydney Morning Herald, 27 June 1908, p.3). Tooth & Co had by this time taken up the head lease on the property (from 1 June 1908) and had plans prepared by architects Halligan & Wilton for a new hotel, to be called the Underwood Estate Hotel, on the site.
The new hotel was completed in early 1909, but had changed its name to be the Lord Dudley Hotel, in recognition of the swearing in of William Humble Ward, 2nd Earl of Dudley, otherwise known as Lord Dudley, as the Governor-General in September 1908. Publican Thomas O’Sullivan held the licence for the new hotel. O’Sullivan had been publican of the former Underwood Estate Hotel since February 1902. He had arrived from Ireland in the mid-1880s and first started in Sydney’s horse racing industry, having a good knowledge of Irish thoroughbred racing, before moving into the hotel business.
The new hotel was designed in a Federation Queen Anne Revival style, addressing the corner, with frontage to Jersey Road and Quarry Street. The hotel included a large cellar and basement level and three floors of bar and accommodation. The basement level covered the footprint of the entire ground level of the Hotel, with a large cellar at the front, a spirits store and general storeroom, a wood and coal store and a laundry. A public toilet and urinal, as well as staff toilet were also in the basement, with a small yard area at the back.
On the ground level the main U-shaped bar with a bottle department took up the corner portion, with two parlours behind and a hallway access to a dining room and kitchen at the rear. The kitchen, dining room and one parlour all had fireplaces. Stairs to the basement and a second flight to the upper levels led off the hallway, with a small balcony to the back of the hotel.
On the first floor were seven bedrooms and a single bathroom. The two bedrooms on the Jersey Road frontage each had a fireplace and access to a small, shared balcony, with the rear bedroom also including a fireplace. On the second floor a small landing at the top of the stairs gave access to another four bedrooms, one with a fireplace. No bathroom was placed on the second floor, with residents required to use that one provided on the first floor.
In October 1920, the owner of the terrace house at 1 Quarry Street, immediately behind the Hotel, approached Tooth & Co to acquire their terrace for incorporation into the Hotel. The offer was rejected as the Hotel, being new, was considered big enough for the area and the trade. Further, as the house was old and dilapidated, and its yard was below the yard level of the Hotel, any incorporation would require too much work. A report on the Hotel at this time shows it in the same configuration as when built, with the exception of one of the bedrooms on the first floor having been converted to a sitting room, leaving a total of 10 bedrooms (Lord Dudley Hotel Managers Office Files N60/1816, Tooth & Co Collection, Noel Butlin Achives, ANU).
Thomas O’Sullivan ran the Lord Dudley with his wife Sarah until, due to ill health, he transferred the licence in December 1920 to his son Maurice. Maurice continued with the license until he traded it in 1925, moving to the United Service Hotel (now the Paddington Inn) on Oxford Street, Paddington. In 1927 he left to join the NSW Parliament as the ALP member for Woollahra, becoming Member for Paddington in 1930, a position he held until 1959.
The O’Sullivan family was a prominent Catholic and ALP family. Thomas and Sarah’s daughter Winifred was the sweetheart of Australian boxing legend Les Darcy, with Darcy regularly visiting the family at the Lord Dudley from the time they met in 1914 until Darcy travelled to America in 1916. Darcy asked Thomas if he could marry his daughter, but they were both considered too young and Thomas refused (Park, R & R. Champion, Home Before Dark: The Story of Les Darcy, A Great Australian Hero, Penguin Australia, Melbourne, 1995 pp 131-132; 185). Darcy sometimes stayed in the rooms at the hotel and may have also helped behind the bar at the Lord Dudley during this period (Sporting Globe, 23 February 1946, p4). Maurice O’Sullivan was one of Darcy’s closest friends, including being in the corner during a number of Darcy’s bouts. After Darcy’s death in America in May 1917, Winifred, who was with him and Maurice, who was in Sydney, paid and organised to have his body returned to Australia (Park, pp. 334-336).
When Thomas died in May 1943, his son (and successor as licensee) Maurice was by then NSW Minister for Transport. Thomas’s funeral was attended by the Premier and his cabinet, the Chief of Police, the Mayors of Waverley, Woollahra and Paddington, as well as the local Sisters of Charity and members of Sydney’s Irish community (The Catholic Weekly, 6 May 1943, p.6). His wife Sarah had died in 1935, and had also been honoured at her funeral with the attendance of the ALP Whip, as well as numerous Parliamentarians, local alderman, church leaders and union officials. 500 people attended Sarah’s funeral, with a cortege stretching 800 metres behind the hearse (Labour Daily, 20 December 1935, p.12).
After the O’Sullivan family left the Lord Dudley in 1925, the hotel freehold which belonged to the estate of William Buchanan, the original owner of the Underwood Estate Hotel, was offered to Tooth & Co for £1400, who refused the offer and the Hotel was sold at auction to a triumvirate of owners, three women Mesdames Wall, Mortimer and Davis. Tooth & Co continued to hold the head lease and to sub-let the property to publicans. In 1931, the then licensee Harry Firkin asked for a rent reduction, complaining that due to the Depression, local workers were being put off and his trade was down. Tooth & Co agreed and reduced his rent accordingly. Firkin left in 1932, replaced by Frederick Hallgreen in March, who in turn left in August to be replaced by Frederick Crawford. The trade at the Hotel was still suffering and Tooth’s reduced the rent again for Crawford in June 1933 (Lord Dudley Hotel , Yellow Card, Noel Butlin Archives; Lord Dudley Hotel Managers Office Files N60/1816, Tooth & Co Collection, Noel Butlin Achives, ANU).
In 1949, as the end of the 50 year head lease on the building approached, the company began to investigate the viability of purchasing the freehold for the building. A report on the building noted that all ten bedrooms were occupied and some changes had taken place throughout. One of the parlours on the ground floor ( a “men’s parlour”) had been converted into a small bar area in 1942, with a U- shaped counter added that could be accessed from the main bar, and the other parlour converted into the licensee’s office. Internal walls were described as being lathe and plaster, while outside it was recommended to remove the post awning and to tile the exterior (Lord Dudley Hotel Managers Office Files N60/1817, Tooth & Co Collection, Noel Butlin Achives, ANU).
Tooth & Co purchased 2/3 of the freehold in June 1949, negotiating with the estate for the remaining 1/3 which they finally secured in May 1953 (Lord Dudley Hotel Managers Office Files N60/1817, Tooth & Co Collection, Noel Butlin Achives, ANU). At this time some internal renovations were carried out, with the walls separating the former dining room and kitchen area, and the office/parlour being removed to form a larger lounge area behind the main bar (Lord Dudley Hotel , Yellow Card, Noel Butlin Archives). The lounge could seat 70 and was partly in response to the increasing number of women coming to the hotel. At peak periods the manager reported women spilled out of the parlour, into the stair hall and up the stairs and mixing with the male drinkers (Lord Dudley Hotel Managers Office Files N60/1817, Tooth & Co Collection, Noel Butlin Achives, ANU). The work was done in July 1953, with the post awning being removed in August. The tile roof and the metal ceilings in the bedrooms were also repaired during 1952-1953.
In 1956 the Lord Dudley featured in a cartoon in The Sun newspaper, to celebrate the hotel installing a television (possibly to take advantage of the televised Melbourne Olympics). The cartoonist Emile Mercier drank at the Lord Dudley, and renamed the hotel the Jolly Dudley in his cartoon in honour of the then publican, Frank Jolley (Fig.8)(Lord Dudley Hotel Managers Office Files N60/1817, Tooth & Co Collection, Noel Butlin Achives, ANU).
In 1963 the main bar was reconfigured to create a straight bar counter for the main bar, replacing what had been an angular, serpentine style bar. This created more even work space behind the bar and a larger drinking area in front of the bar.
In 1979, Jamie Couche took on the license under Tooth & Co, before finally purchasing the freehold in c1990 from the brewery. Couche had converted the downstairs storerooms into a restaurant and kitchen area in c1979-1981, with the hotel being redecorated in an old English pub style. Little work was done to the hotel after this period, except for an internal smoking balcony on the first floor in 2007, later removed. In 2015-16 “The Garden” restaurant opened in what had been the open rear service yard at the basement level.
Plans were approved by Council for a further development of this space, by adding additional space at the ground floor level of the Hotel, but the work has not proceeded. |