Historical notes: | Statement of Country:
Birchgrove is in Wangal Country, which encompasses the south side of Sydney Harbour, from Iron Cove to Parramatta (Attenbrow 2010). It is close to the border of Gadigal Country, and it is likely both clans occupied the area. Birchgrove is called 'Wanna' in Sydney language. Yurulbin, meaning 'swift running water', was first recorded as the point's name in 1832 (Mackenzie 2011).
Being among the first to encounter the British, Wangal were highly impacted by disease and dispossession. The area that is now Yurulbin Park and Foreshore was an area in which Wangal people lived and accessed the resources of Sydney Harbour. This is demonstrated by the presence of archaeological sites in the local area including shelters containing midden material and art on private land adjoining the foreshore (Goodall & Cadzow; Thorp 2003; Solling and Reynolds 1997).
Early European history:
Yurulbin Park and Foreshore is part of 30 acres granted in 1796 to George Whitfield. Whitfield planted an orange grove, and sold in 1810 to Lieutenant John Birch, who renamed it Birchgrove. This was part of 550 acres of Rozelle and Balmain granted to William Balmain in 1800.
Merchant and developer, Numa Joubert subdivided the peninsula in 1860 in ten sections. Land at the point (where Yurulbin Park and Foreshore is) was split in two: sections 9 (two lots, to east) and 10 (three, west) The rocky tip was unsold. After subdivision, waterfront businesses arose in the 1860s and photographs show increasing land clearance. A 1905 postcard suggests sandstone was quarried, or excess stone dumped here (Cosmos Archaeology 2020; Read 2011; AILA 2018) near Yurulbin Point.
Maritime industries:
Alexander Cormack was a cooper who developed a business (lot 1, section 10 on the west of the point) with a jetty off Louisa Road and, by early 1890s, a seawall around the (Yurulbin) point, a large brick building and yard. The jetty became a stopping point for steamers, and ferries from 1908. From 1909 his sons took over as A.W. Cormack Ltd.
In 1913 the power station was built at White Bay, connected via submarine cables from Yurulbin Point to Manns Point. Construction took from 1913 - 24, largely due to issues with bedrock instability. By the 1960s, cables were obsolete, and were disconnected in 1969 but the tunnel remains and is listed on the SHR (Cosmos Archaeology 2020).
From 1917 to 1920 the site was developed by Wallace Powerboat Building Company. Morrison & Sinclair (shipbuilding) Pty Ltd bought it in 1923. By 1923, it had three slipways on the south-east tip and a large wharf on Snails Bay. They designed, built and repaired government, naval and merchant boats. By the mid-1920s the northern part of the point was subdivided in five with reclamation, for housing (Cosmos Archaeology 2020; AILA 2018)
The 1940s saw more maritime infrastructure. The southern foreshore of the point was reclaimed with a seawall, slipway and mooring. Sheds and wharves were extended, and a timber deck and dolphin added to the jetty. Along the north was a seawall, with 1910s -20s reclamation, including an L-shaped jetty and shed. The buildings and winches were still evident in 1968.
The point's name changed to Long Nose Point in the 1960s. By then, Snails Bay offshore mooring for large ships expanded with two rows of concrete dolphins. Long Nose Jetty was rebuilt by NSW Maritime Services Board in 1969. By then, local maritime industries were declining. Morrison and Sinclair ceased trading in the early 1970s. (Cosmos Archaeology 2020; AILA 2018; Mackenzie 2011).
New park:
The derelict site was acquired by the NSW State Planning Authority (SPA). A park was designed in stages in early 1973 and later for Leichhardt Municipal Council, who acquired it 1973 -76. The idea was that of Nigel Ashton, a modernist architect and planner with Lindsay Robertson, SPA's first landscape architect, who furthered initiatives outlined in the Sydney Harbour Foreshore Study of 1967. Ashton was concerned for visual quality, playing a critical role in identifying and acquiring sites for parks such as this and Peacock Point.
The park was built with assistance from the Whitlam government (Cosmos Archaeology 2020; Mackenzie 2011; AILA 2018; Knox 1996).
Evolving landscape design philosophy:
From 1969, there was increasing interest in taking a modern, ecological approach to landscape design. Its main protagonists were Harry Howard (1930-2000), Bruce Mackenzie (1932-2024) and Bruce Rickard (b. 1929) who ran landscape design practices and Allan Correy, who from 1967-70 ran the Landscape Section of the NSW Public Works Department. This group developed ideas in parallel with Californian landscape architects like Lawrence Halprin, influenced by his ethos that the Modern Movement in landscape architecture was 'a whole appreciation of environmental design as a holistic approach to the matter of making spaces for people to live.' (AILA 2018).
Unlike Howard and Rickard, Mackenzie was self-taught. Art classes, photoengraving, bush-walks, landscape contractor work and an appreciation of ecology meshed with the ideas of his colleagues. He said in 1974 'At no stage was I influenced by doctrines of a formal school of landscape teaching' (Correy 2002:388). Commodore Heights lookout at West Head, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park (1964) with Russell Smith was an early work showing his love of Sydney sandstone. As were a garden for the Seidlers' Killara house (1967), roof garden for Reader's Digest House (Surry Hills, 1967) and landscape around Pettit and Sevitt demonstration homes in St. Ives bushland.
Sydney Bush School landscapes (as this school of design came to be known) were socially aware, aesthetically pleasing and responded to specific environments. Its influence on younger practitioners such as Buchanan and Craig Burton ensured a continuum. The philosophy was somewhat lost as Councils and gardeners across NSW copied elements, but not the ecological or aesthetic intent (Correy 2002; 388 - 389; AILA 2018).
Mackenzie transformed both Peacock Point and Yurulbin, challenging notions of conventional inner city parks. They became icons of modern park design. He later named this 'Alternative parkland' explaining that it drew from understanding nature's functioning and 'identifying the pleasure it affords people.' It provided an escape from urban pressure and 'meaningful reflection of nature's forms.' The budget was constrained. His unpretentious approach suited the site and community, using recycled stone, wharf piles and telephone poles. It was inspired by existing structures (cooperage, shipyards, seawalls), reinforced by retaining and using the boat ramp and slipway, with a new viewing platform over the water echoing a former wharf (Correy 2002: 388 - 389; AILA 2018).
The original brief clearly required the park be screened from water by trees. While some residents complained as trees thickened, blocking views, Mackenzie and Associates explained that they had confidence trees would mature and reveal some view through and below branches, enhancing outlooks. What residents forget are the former industrial buildings and tall fence around the whole site, blocking or impeding views (Mackenzie 2011).
Original planted trees include gums, she oak, turpentine, and paperbark. Shrubs included banksias, hakeas, snow-in-summer, and tea tree. Smaller shrubs or ground covers included hairpin banksia, spider flowers, running postman, geebungs, coastal rosemary, violets.
In the 1970s, native plants were scarcely available in nurseries. In 1974 they were ordered in advance from specialists. Understorey was thinned to lift canopies and open views. The boat ramp was restored as bare rock combined with sandstone rubble-based concrete. The wharf was damaged by a freighter but made good, re-built as a fishing location. Freighters relocated to Port Botany.
1980s to 2016:
In 1986, Yurulbin Park was given the Australian Institute of Landscape Architects (AILA)'s Award of Merit.
On 8th July 1994 Long Nose Point was renamed Yurulbin Point. A ceremony was held where Federal Minister for Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Affairs, the Hon Robert Tickner, launched the Commonwealth government's Local Government Reconciliation Program here, with Commissioner Christine Williams, Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Commission, Mayor Larry Hand and Cllr. Peter Woods (AILA 2018; plaque in Yurulbin Park).
In 2016 AILA chose Yurulbin Park as one of Australia's ten most significant landscape works from 1966-2000, representing the profession's foundations and best of their time. (AILA 2018; Saniga 2016).
When discussing plans to hand over Goat Island to Aboriginal people in 'The Australian' newspaper on 6 May 2016 Paul Keating explained:
'The idea was always to return the conservation of the headlands to as they were before settlement, with Me-Mel - the Aboriginal word for pupil of the eye - at the centre, surrounded by the reconstructed headland at Barangaroo, the great bluff face at Balls Head, the newly retained Ballast Point headland park and the natural park (Yurulbin) that sits at the end of Balmain,' Mr Keating said. 'That is, the hub would be Goat Island, with the rest of it the spokes. There are not many cities worldwide that still have this kind of natural curtilage and headlands.' (AILA 2018). |